The
Himalaya, the "abode of snows", extends
from Assam in eastern India west to Afghanistan. It
is a chain of the highest and youngest mountains on
earth and it encompasses a region of deep religious
and cultural traditions and an amazing diversity of
people. A trek in Nepal is a special and rewarding
mountain holiday.
Just as New York is not representative of the USA,
so Kathmandu is not representative of Nepal. If you
have the time and energy to trek, don't miss the opportunity
to leave Kathmandu and see the spectacular beauty
and the unique culture of Nepal. Fortunately for the
visitor, there are still only a few roads extending
deeply into the hills, so the only way to truly visit
the remote regions of the kingdom is in the slowest
and most intimate manner - walking. It requires more
time and effort, but the rewards are also greater.
Instead of zipping down a freeway, racing to the next
"point of interest," each step provides
new and intriguing viewpoints. You will perceive your
day as an entity rather than a few highlights strung
together by a ribbon of concrete. For the romanticist,
each step follows the footsteps of Hillary, Tenzing,
Herzog and other Himalayan explorers. If you have
neither the patience nor the physical stamina to visit
the hills of Nepal on foot, a helicopter flight provides
an expensive and unsatisfactory substitute.
Trekking in Nepal will take you through a country
that has captured the imagination of mountaineers
and explorers for more than 100 years. You will meet
people in remote mountain villages whose lifestyle
has not changed in generations. Most people trust
foreigners. Nepal is one of only a handful of countries
that has never been ruled by a foreign power.
Many of the values associated with a hiking trip
at home do not have the same importance during a trek
in Nepal. Isolation is traditionally a crucial element
of any wilderness experience but in Nepal it is impossible
to get completely away from people, except for short
times or at extremely high elevations. Environmental
concerns must include the effects of conservation
measures on rural people and the economic effects
of tourism on indigenous populations. Even traditional
national park management must be adapted because there
are significant population centres within Sagarmatha
(Mt Everest) and Langtang national parks.
Trekking does not mean mountain climbing. While the
ascent of a Himalayan peak may be an attraction for
some, you need not have such a goal to enjoy a trek.
As far as most people are concerned, trekking always
refers to walking on trails.
While trekking you will see the great diversity of
Nepal. Villages embrace many ethnic groups and cultures.
The terrain changes from tropical jungle to high glaciated
peaks in only 150 km. From the start, the towering
peaks of the Himalaya provide one of the highlights
of a trek. As your plane approaches Kathmandu these
peaks appear to be small clouds on the horizon. The
mountains become more definable and seem to reach
impossible heights as you get closer and finally land
at Kathmandu's Tribhuvan Airport.
During a trek, the Himalaya disappears behind Nepal's
continual hills, but dominates the northern skyline
at each pass. Annapurna, Manaslu, Langtang, Gauri
Shankar and Everest will become familiar names. Finally,
after weeks of walking, you will arrive at the foot
of the mountains themselves - astonishing heights
from which gigantic avalanches tumble earthwards in
apparent slow motion, dwarfed by their surroundings.
Your conception of the Himalaya alters as you turn
from peaks famed only for their height to gaze on
far more picturesque summits that you may never have
heard of - Kantega, Ama Dablam, Machhapuchhare and
Kumbhakarna.
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WHAT IS A TREK ?
A Trek is Not a Climbing Trip
whether you begin your trek at a road head or fly
into a remote mountain airstrip, a large part of it
will be in the Middle Hills region at elevations between
500 and 3000 meters. In this region, there are always
well-developed trails through villages and across
mountain passes. Even at high altitudes there are
intermittent settlements used during summer by shepherds,
so the trails, though often indistinct, are always
there. You can easily travel on any trail without
the aid of ropes or mountaineering skills. There are
rare occasions when there is snow on the trail, and
on some high passes it might be necessary to place
a safety line for your companions or porters if there
is deep snow. Still, alpine techniques are almost
never used on a traditional trek. Anyone who has walked
extensively in the mountains has all the skills necessary
for an extended trek in Nepal.
Though some treks venture near glaciers, and even
cross the foot of them, most treks do not allow the
fulfillment of any Himalayan mountaineering ambitions.
Nepal's mountaineering regulations allow trekkers
to climb 18 specified peaks with a minimum of formality,
but you must still make a few advance arrangements
for such climbs. Many agents offer so-called climbing
treks which include the ascent of one of these peaks
as a feature of the trek. There are a few peaks that,
under ideal conditions, are within the resources of
individual trekkers. A climb can be arranged in Kathmandu
if conditions are right, but a climb of one of the
more difficult peaks should be planned well in advance.
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SELF ARRANGED TREKS
A third style of trekking is to gather sherpas, porters,
food and equipment and take off on a trek with all
the comforts and facilities of an organised trek.
On such a trek you camp in tents, porters carry your
gear, sherpas set up camp and cook and serve meals.
You carry a backpack with only a water bottle, camera
and jacket.
Trekkers who opt for this approach, particularly
with a small group of friends, often have a rewarding,
enriching and enjoyable trip. You can use a trekking
company in Nepal to make some or all of the arrangements,
though you may have to shop for an agency that suits
you. Some Nepalese trekking companies offer equipment
for hire, some will arrange a single sherpa or porter
and some will undertake only the entire arrangements
for a trek.
If you want to have everything organised in advance,
you can contact a Nepalese trekking company by mail
or fax and ask them to make arrangements for your
trek. There are more than 300 trekking companies in
Kathmandu that will organise treks for a fee and provide
all sherpas, porters and, if necessary, equipment.
Unless you have a good idea of what you want, it will
require a huge volume of correspondence to provide
you with the information you require, to determine
your specific needs, to define your precise route
and itinerary and to negotiate a price that both parties
understand. Mail takes up to three weeks each way
to and from Australia, the Americas or Europe, so
it's better to use fax or e-mail. Be specific in your
communications and be sure that the trekking company
understands exactly who will provide what equipment.
It is most embarrassing to discover on the first night
that someone forgot the sleeping bags.
One solution is to go to Nepal and simply sort out
the details in an hour or two of face to face negotiations
with a trekking company. You should be prepared to
spend a week or so (less, if you are lucky) in Kathmandu
settling these details. An alternative to endless
correspondence with Nepal is to use a trek operator
in your own country.
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TREKKING WITH A TREKKING COMPANY
Companies specializing in trekking can organize both
individual and group treks. One major advantage to
dealing with someone close to home is that it's easy
to communicate by phone and the agent can assist you
with travel to and from Nepal.
On an arranged trek the group must stay generally
on its prearranged route and, within limits, must
meet a specific schedule. This means that you may
have to forego an appealing side trip or festival
and, if you are sick, you will probably have to keep
moving with the rest of the group. You also may not
agree with a leader's decisions if the schedule must
be adjusted because of weather, health, political
or logistical considerations.
You will be trekking with people you have not met
before. Although some strong friendships may develop,
there may also be some in the party you would much
rather not have met. For some people, this prospect
alone rules out their participation in a group trek.
The major drawback, however, will probably be the
cost. Organised treks usually start at US$35-80 per
person per day of the trek. One of the major expenses
is the services of a Western leader who acts as guide,
cultural interpreter and social director. On the positive
side, by fixing the destination and schedule in advance,
all members of the group will have prepared themselves
for the trip and should have proper equipment and
a clear understanding of the schedule and terrain.
Read the brochures and other material prepared by
the agent to see if it is likely to attract the type
of people you'd get along with.
Most prearranged treks cater to people to whom time
is more important (within limits) than money. For
many, the most difficult part of planning a trek is
having the time to do so. These people are willing
to pay more to avoid wasting a week of their limited
vacation sitting around in Kathmandu making arrangements
or waiting along the way for a spare seat on a plane.
A trekking agent usually tries to cram as many days
in the hills as is possible into a given time span.
Trekking agents make reservations for hotels and domestic
flights well in advance. Thus theoretically, these
hassles are also eliminated.
Because the group carries its own food for the entire
trek, a variety of meals is possible. This may include
canned goods from Kathmandu and imported food bought
from expeditions or other exotic sources. A skilled
cook can prepare an abundant variety of tasty Western-style
food. The meals a good sherpa cook can prepare in
an hour over a kerosene stove would put many Western
cafes to shame.
A group trek carries tents for the trekkers. This
convenience gives you a place to spread out your gear
without fear that someone will pick it up, and probably
means that you will have a quiet night. In addition,
a tent also gives you the freedom to go to bed when
you choose. You can retire immediately after dinner
to read or sleep, or sit up and watch the moon rise
as you discuss the day's outing.
Money and staff hassles rarely surface on an arranged
trek. The sirdar is responsible for making minor purchases
along the way and ensures a full complement of porters
every day. Unless you are particularly interested,
or quite watchful, you may never be aware that these
negotiations are taking place.
A group trek follows a tradition and routine that
trekkers and mountaineers have developed and refined
for more than 50 years. You can travel in much the
same manner as the approach marches described in The
Ascent of Everest, Annapurna and Americans on Everest,
a feature not possible with other styles. If your
interest in the Himalaya was kindled through such
books, you still have the opportunity to experience
this delightful way to travel. There are many reasons
why these expeditions went to all the trouble and
expense to travel as they did.
It is an altogether refreshing experience to have
all the camp and logistics problems removed from your
responsibility so you are free to enjoy fully the
land and the people which have attracted mountaineers
for a century.
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A NOTE OF CAUTION
If you trek on your own, remember that you will be
far from civilization as you know it (including medical
care, communication facilities and transport), no
matter how many local hotels or other facilities may
exist. It is only prudent to take the same precautions
during a trek in Nepal as you would take on a major
hiking or climbing trip at home, and carry a basic
medical kit. There will often be nobody but the Sherpa
crew and your own companions to help you if you are
sick or injured.
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